Nanga Parbat, June 22, 2025 – The Europe Today: Romanian climber Horia Colibasanu continues his ambitious attempt to summit Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat via the Kinshofer route on the Diamir Face — without the use of supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. This week marked a significant step forward in his acclimatization efforts as he successfully reached Camp 2 at 6,000 meters.
Colibasanu began his push earlier in the week, initially ascending to Camp 1 at 5,000 meters where he spent a night despite an unexpected setback: a leaking mattress, which left him feeling “like he was in a boat” by morning. That night, approximately 12 centimeters of snow fell at the camp, though temperatures stayed relatively mild at 4–5°C.
He had initially planned to move to higher altitude camps immediately after, but poor conditions forced a delay. A large avalanche the previous Sunday had swept through the couloir above Camp 1, raising safety concerns. In light of the danger, Colibasanu prudently retreated to Base Camp to wait for more favorable conditions.
Yesterday, he seized a weather window to resume his ascent. In a grueling effort, he climbed 1,800 vertical meters carrying all his gear to reach Camp 2. “It was brutal,” Colibasanu reported via social media, describing the final 150 meters as especially demanding due to a steep rock wall.
Upon arrival, he encountered additional challenges in finding a suitable tent site. He managed to pitch his shelter on a narrow 2m x 1m platform, anchoring it to fixed ropes for security. However, uneven ice beneath the platform made leveling the tent difficult.
Colibasanu’s no-oxygen, unsupported ascent reflects his continued pursuit of pure alpine-style climbing. As he continues his preparations for a summit push, further progress will depend heavily on weather conditions and route safety in the days ahead.
